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Shimla to Kathmandu
Shimla to Kathmandu
Day 7: March 18 – Shimla to Rishikesh (8 hours)
A long day, not so much distance but in driving time as the first half is slow going on very winding mountain roads. After Solon (waypoints 22 – 27) the road heads along the valley, down to the river and up again and is bad in places (bumpy and some large holes) but empty and through lovely pine forests. Along here would be a great place to stop for a picnic. After waypoint 30 the route is back up high with fantastic views. Once down from the mountains the second half of this drive can be heavy, with busy traffic in Hardiwar and some congested streets to negotiate to get back onto the Riskikesh road. We cut through the corner of Rishikesh and head upwards again to reach our hotel, perched dramatically overlooking the town.
Overnight at Ananda Spa in the Himalayas
In the grounds of the Palace, once the home of Maharaja of Tehri-Garhwal, the Ananda is a luxurious experience. Very comfortable rooms reached by golf buggy, all with balconies and wonderful bathrooms and views of Rishikesh or the Palace. Small bar, restaurant with terrace. The Spa, voted the world’s number one spa by Conde Naste in 2005, has a variety of different treatments and an outdoor swimming pool. It is open from 7am to 8pm (though the pool may close earlier depending on temperature) and we recommend you book treatments in advance (list of treatments available from the crew). Alternatively head back into Rishkiesh, an important pilgrimage centre on the River Ganges, to see the Ganga Aarti (evening prayers) by the river - hotel or crew can arrange transport.
Day 8: March 19 – Rishikesh to Corbett National Park (7 hours)
Yesterday was mountains, today is jungle. The first short section is along the river in Riskikesh and is convenient if you want to stop to look at the river and the ghats. Waypoint 110, just off route, is a car park on the river – from here you can walk across the suspension bridge to the ghats on the other side. We turn away from the main Hardiwar road across a bridge by a hydropower station (waypoint 120 – easy to miss) and into Rajaji National Park. This is a beautiful flat and empty road that runs through parkland along the river. We rejoin the NH72 to Najidabad which goes through a series of small towns to Ramangar where you turn off for Corbett National Park. Fill up at the petrol station in Ramangar - there are some as you come into town and one in the town at waypoint 192, awkwardly placed in the middle of a junction - as on the next driving day there are no petrol stations for nearly 100km (waypoint 233).
Overnight at Infinity Resort, Corbett National Park
Jungle-style hotel in a beautiful location on the River Kosi and the opportunity to see wildlife in the park. Rooms are comfortable and clean, the style is no-frills in keeping with the wildlife ethos. No TV or mod cons but all have modern bathrooms and balconies facing the river and Kumaon hills in the background. The bar and restaurant are in a very atmospheric central building with an open fire. There is a good wildlife film shown in the evening accompanied by a nature expert on hand from the Corbett Foundation who are trying to protect the tigers from poaching. Large outdoor swimming pool next to the river. Ping-pong table and other games.
Infinity Resort is linked with the Corbett Foundation who are trying to protect the remaining tigers in the park www.tigercorbettindia.com.
Day 9: March 20 – Rest Day at Infinity Resort, Corbett National Park
Named after Jim Corbett, the hunter and naturalist, the park is India’s oldest wildlife sanctuary. It stretches over an area of 1300 square kilometres in the foothills of the Himalayas. It is most famous for the tigers that live here but there over 50 other mammal including leopard and smaller cats, sambar, cheetal (type of deer), barking deer, hog deer, wild boar, langur and rhesus monkeys, sloth and Himalayan black bear, gharial and muggar crocodiles and nearly 600 different birds.
Early morning or late afternoon jeep safaris last 4 hours, or you can go out for the whole day with a picnic lunch. For a slower pace go on an elephant for a couple of hours. There is a limit to the number of vehicles allowed in the park at one time so jeep safaris should be booked in advance if possible. In the afternoon you can go for a swim in the river with Laxmi the elephant and visit the Corbett Foundation centre.
Day 10: March 21 – Corbett National Park to Binsar (5 hours)
Today we have a peaceful drive with spectacular views. The road goes through the edge of Corbett National Park then along the valley with the river Kosi to the right. The surface may be very rough in places (on reccy in November though may be repaired by March) and there are frequent fords. The lack of traffic on this road as we climb higher and higher into the mountains may lull you but beware, the odd lorry and bus may surprise you round the sharp corners. The rest of the journey takes in Raniketh, a small hill station with a large army presence and a golf course, one of the highest in India. Then on towards Almora which we bypass – however you may need to detour at waypoint 251 to the petrol station to fill up before heading up to Binsar. This last section of road up to Kahli Esate can be bad in places.
Overnight at Khali Estate, near Binsar
Here we get away from it all in the middle of the Khali park. No phones, TV, internet or newspapers to disturb the peace and quiet. We stay in simple spacious brick cabins which are quite basic but atmospheric with glorious views across the Himalayas and a large terrace for watching the sun go down. Walk in the forest all around, or play badminton. Although no bar we can bring our own alcohol. Electricity in the park may be rationed and the hotel has a generator to use in the evenings. Watch the sunrise with a cup of tea from along the ridge. Dinner is included here.
Day 11: March 22 – Binsar to Royal Bardia National Park in Nepal (9 hours plus time at the border)
A long day so we suggest you leave at first light. We need to reach the border with Nepal by midday. The route takes us back down towards the Almora road (where you may need to backtrack along yesterday’s route to fill up with petrol again) then we turn left towards Rameshwar and Ghat. It is a narrow but good road through forests with the river to the right though the surface got worse on the recce after waypoint 300 probably due to the monsoon which was heavy this year. During the recce there was a lot of road repair going on so it might well be fine by the time we all arrive on the rally. At Ghat the road goes south, still winding through the mountains, towards Tanakpur. 10km further on is Bambasa, the border town. We will try to do most of the paperwork for the border in advance but you will need to hang around for a while. Once into Nepal the road is straight and generally pretty good although every so often there are unexpected dips or humps, or large holes, particularly around bridges, and you may encounter the occasional police check (very few at the time of recce). The route is straight on until you turn off into Royal Bardia National Park and the condition of the road for this last 13km can only be described as poor, with some large holes and a river bed to cross. Fun though.
Overnight at Karnali Lodge, Royal Bardia
Comfort in the middle of the jungle, here accommodation is in safari-style rooms or tents with comfortable twin beds. The water is heated by solar power and at times the only lighting may be candles or hurricane lamps. Rooms have mosquito nets and a torch by the bed and there will probably be a barbeque for supper around the campfire. People with rooms may have to share their bathrooms with the tent dwellers.
Day 12: March 23 – Royal Bardia to Pokhara (9.5 hours)
We are back on the main road for the first part of today’s drive, than at Butwal we turn off onto the road up to Pokhara and the sensational scenery begins. Suspension bridges, terraces of cultivation, deep gorges and (weather permitting) views of the snowy peaks as we get closer to Pokhara. The road from Bardia and particularly once we turn off at Butwal is mainly good but every so often there is an unexpected bump, dip or stretch of unmade surface.
Overnight at Fishtail Lodge
Pokhara and specifically Fishtail Lodge is in ‘1000 Places to Visit Before You Die’. The hotel has a kind of beach chalet layout in a lovely garden full of flowers. Rooms are very comfortable and full of character, you have a TV, a window seat and chairs outside to sit and watch the view or enjoy the garden. Not all rooms have mountain views but the terrace is great for sitting and looking at the lake. Restaurant, bar with chairs around a fire, swimming pool. Pokhara has lots of shops selling a wide range of souvenirs, jewellery and handicrafts plus money exchange, internet etc, all very near the hotel, as well as a big choice of restaurants offering every kind of menu - Italian, Korean, Japanese, English… (but we still recommend that you avoid salad, uncooked food and ice-cream).
Day 13: March 24 – Rest Day at Fishtail Lodge, Pokhara
Take a boat to the temple in the lake and go for a swim. Walk up the hill behind the hotel to the Peace Pagoda, a beautiful Buddhist stupa – about an hour and plenty of steps but worth it for the views at the top. Drive to the viewpoint at Skyahot or organise a day’s trek with the hotel. Or just sit by the lake at one of the many cafes and eat apple pie.
Day 14: March 25 – Pokhara to Kathmandu (5 hours)
After leaving Pokhara we take the well-maintained Prithvi Highway, built with Chinese assistance in 1973. The road stays near the bottom of the valley for most of the route, at times following the Trisuli river, very popular for rafting trips. We head through the busy town of Mugling then pass the brick archway marking the start of the cable car to Manakamana, site of an important temple (waypoint 443). The cable car takes 10 minutes and costs $12, there can be long queues. The last stretch down into Kathmandu can be slow-moving with lots of trucks, and once in the city there may be busy traffic, although we have the advantage of arriving on a Sunday.
Overnight at the Yak and Yeti, Kathmandu
A well-run city hotel on Durbar Marg, very near the Royal Palace and about 10 minutes walk from Thamel, the main tourist area. The large garden offers a welcome escape from the city bustle. Two small (slightly neglected) swimming pools. Two restaurants, a bar and casino and the staff can give you any information about sightseeing or arrange a city tour. Internet in the Business Centre and all international newspapers available. ATMs and currency exchange nearby.
Day 15: March 26 – Rest Day in Kathmandu
Visit busy Durbar Square (avoid the rush hour) to see the royal palace, various temples, and Kumari Chowk, home of the living goddess. The beautiful Swayambhu stupa is 2km west of Thamel (300 steep steps but very dramatic – or alternative path at the back - Café de Stupa at top has great views). Thamel has loads of shops and very good restaurants although salespeople may hassle.
Overnight option for slow cars: leave Kathmandu in the afternoon and drive to Daman (3 / 4 hours) to make Day 16 a shorter drive. Overnight at the Everest Panorama Hotel. This hotel has seen better days and the car parking is very limited but the staff are lovely, the food is good and in the morning when you get up at sunrise and, fingers crossed, see the full sweep of mountains in front of you. Bring warm clothes as the rooms can be cold though they have heaters. NB Lots of steps and long path to reach the hotel.
 
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