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Kathmandu to Calcutta
Kathmandu to Calcutta (Kolkata)
Day 16: March 27 - Kathmandu or Daman to Koshi Tappu (10 hours or 7 hours from Daman)
We retrace our route out of Kathmandu on the road to Thankot, competing for space with lorries. Fill up with petrol before the turn off at waypoint 36 onto a narrow road. The road surface along here varies from pretty good to very rough, with the odd ford. Look out for large holes, bumps in the few villages along the way, and possibly stretches of unmade road. Away from the pollution and built up areas of Kathmandu the landscape becomes more interesting. Daman village (waypoint 42) is a good place to stop for a cup of tea and if you are lucky views of the mountains including Everest. The road climbs up to the highest point (2488m) and down again through forest to Pathlaiya where we turn left onto the Mahindra Highway, the main road. This is a faster road, generally straight and good surface, all the way to Koshi Tappu. The last 11kw km, once you turn off the main road, is unmade with large holes and lots of loose material.
Overnight at Koshi Tappu
Despite the road it is all worth it, for the experience of low-impact but comfortable camping in the jungle. Large tents with twin beds and plenty of room, torches are provided, shower block (water heated by solar panels) and hurricane lamps. There is a generator in the evening. This national park is heaven for twitchers– there are over 450 different kinds of bird – and you can go for a walk through the village or to the river to watch the sun set. We eat supper outside under the stars.
Day 17: March 28 – Koshi Tappu to Kalimpong in India (6 hours plus time at the border)
The final stretch through Nepal is easy going on flat road. Border formalities into India may take some time. Then we follow the main road (NH31A) for the drive up to Kalimpong, following the river into the hills. After we pass Coronation Bridge built in 1930 (waypoint 138) the traffic starts to thin out. Our route crosses the river further up at Teesta. The last 13km up to Kalimpong are very beautiful with great views and an unusual loop!
Overnight at Silver Oaks, Kalimpong
This small town, once part of Sikkim then Bhutan and finally British India in the 19th century, is now a quiet more easy-going hillstation than its neighbour Darjeeling. We may arrive in time to catch the busy Wednesday ‘haat’ or market, where you can buy anything and everything. Our hotel has comfortable rooms and views over the mountains from the terrace.
Day 18: March 29 –Kalimpong to Phuntsholing in Bhutan (5.5 hours)
Leaving Kalimpong the road is quite rough (before Algarah and in the town itself there are some large potholes and sharp edges) but gets better after waypoint 157. We climb up to the highest point, Lava, where there is a monastery, then head back down on a very beautiful road, which you will probably have mostly to yourself. We turn left onto the main road and go through several towns and tea plantations, before heading north towards the dramatic range of mountains that is Bhutan.
Overnight at Lakhi Hotel, Phuntsholing
This busy border town is an interesting mixture of Indian and Bhutanese with a small market and a temple called Zangto Pelri in the centre. The hotel is very new, with clean spacious rooms, a bar and restaurant.
Day 19: March 30 – Phuntsholing to Paro (6 hours)
From Phuntsholing the road starts climbing up into the mountains. It is a very beautiful journey with few villages as Bhutan is a sparsely populated country. The entire national highway is being remade in preparation for the Coronation of the new King in 2008 so it is difficult to predict the condition of the road and you may be held up by roadworks. Some areas are always bad due to landslides. Confluence (waypoint 222) marks the joining of two rivers and there are three stupas in different styles, Bhutanese, Tibetan and Nepali. There is a checkpoint here and you need to stop to have your passport stamped.
Overnight at Hotel Uma, Paro
A new hotel opened in 2004, accommodation is very comfortable, with wonderful views across the valley. Restaurant, bar and state of the art spa. The main street of Paro is lined with traditional decorated buildings containing small shops and restaurants. The Paro Dzong – fortress-monastery – is on the hillside overlooking the valley and above is the museum. Dzongs were built for defence but today they are home to monks and government offices. The Paro Festival takes place while we are here. About 10km from Paro is the breathtaking Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest) monastery built on the face of a cliff. Guru Rinpoche – the father of Bhutanese Buddhism – came here on a flying tiger in the 8th century and meditated in a cave for 3 months. It is a worthwhile but strenuous 1 ½ hour climb up (or go half way to the tea house for very good views).
Day 20: March 31 – Paro to Thimpu (1.5 hours)
It is a short drive to Thimpu, the country’s capital, but the road will probably be busy with extra traffic from the festival. We retrace the waypoints from yesterday to confluence, passing Tamchhog Lhakhang on the other side of the river, a private temple owned by descendants of Thangtong Gyalpo of Tibet, who built many iron bridges in Bhutan similar to the one here. Unlike other parts of Bhutan which are thickly forested this landscape is mainly bare. At Confluence (waypoint 222) you will probably need to have your papers checked again and then we turn left for Thimpu. The last stretch of road into the city is a new dual carriageway.
Overnight at Taj Hotel, Thimpu
Five-star comfort at this brand new hotel in the centre of Thimpu (so new in fact that the gardens and some facilities may not be completed however the rooms are all ready to go.). Coffee shop, bar, restaurant, spa.
Day 21: April 1 – Rest day in Thimpu
Thimpu is small and easy to explore by foot. Visit the fort-monastery Trashi Chhoe Dzong, now the summer residence of the monks and where several government departments have their offices. There is a busy weekend market, a golf course, several interesting museums and a small zoo where you can see the takin – Bhutan’s national animal. Or drive to the important monastery at the old capital Punakha (about 2.5 hours). The road goes via Dochu La (3140m) marked by 108 stupas where, if you are lucky and the clouds lift, there is a magnificent view of the mountains.
Day 22: April 2 – Thimpu to Phuntsholing (6 hours)
Overnight at Lakhi Hotel, Phontsholing
While you are in Phuntsholing use up any spare Ngultrums as these cannot be exchanged in India, although in Bhutan you can spend India rupees. We stay at the same hotel and will try to complete any paperwork for the border in the evening.
Day 23: April 3 – Phuntsholing to Siliguri (4 hours)
Across the border into India and you immediately feel the contrast with Bhutan. You must stop at Indian Immigration to have your passport stamped. It is an easy drive back down to Siliguri through tea plantations. We are following the waypoints from the route up, so they will sometimes appear to be on the far side of the tulip, but the navigation is very straight forward, straight on apart from a right turn in Haspira at waypoint 190.
Overnight at Cindrella Hotel, Siliguri
A four-star hotel about 4 km from the centre of this busy town – wireless internet connection, swimming pool and a small but good restaurant serving mainly Indian food. Siliguri is a transport hub for West Bengal and Assam and there is a large market. If you arrive early, take a trip to a tea plantation or visit the market.
Day 24: April 4 – Siliguri to Malda (4-5 hours)
Some of today’s drive is on a fast two lane motorway, however there were a couple of diversions during the recce (Nov) which take you off the road, in one case through a village, and the exact route of these diversions may have changed by March. Do believe your eyes if you see a truck or bullock cart coming towards you on your side of the motorway.
The monuments at Pandua and Guar are waypointed and are worth a visit, however you may prefer to reach the hotel first and catch a taxi back down the road (in the case of Padua) or on for Guar.
Overnight at Golden Park Hotel, Malda
This is a new hotel with three stars, don’t expect luxury but the rooms are clean and spacious and the food in the restaurant is good. No money exchange and one computer with very slow internet connection.
Guar is waypointed on tomorrow’s route, but we recommend you visit today, or get up very early.
Day 25: April 5 – Malda to Calcutta (6 to 8 hours depending on road condition)
The road condition for the first 100 km of the final drive was, during the recce in Nov, very bad indeed, due to the unusually heavy monsoon in 2006 which resulted in a very broken up surface and endless large potholes. However we are assured by the Minister of Tourism for West Bengal (and several other people) that it will be better by March and there are many signs of road repairs going on. Someone will go ahead to check the road nearer the time. Still we recommend that you leave plenty of time for the last day of the rally and aim to arrive in Calcutta well before the afternoon rush hour and in time for the press conference.
The route takes us all the way down on the main highway (N34) and for the final section it will be busy. Once past the airport we stick to the bypass flyover which gives an excellent view of the Victoria Memorial. At the second last waypoint you keep in the right-hand line which is for taxis – it says No Entry – and do a u-turn in front of the hotel. The hotel entrance is very hidden amongst a row of shops – but there will be eager security people on the look out for you.
When we arrive at the hotel there will probably be press waiting for our grand arrival! Outdoor car parking is limited so you may be asked to drive back onto the road for photographs and later on you will need to move your car to the secure underground car park.
From 4pm there will be a press conference and a tea, hosted by the Oberoi Grand, which we would like everyone to attend.
Overnight at The Oberoi Grand, Calcutta
A lovely five-star hotel in a 19th century building right in the centre of the city, very tranquil considering its location. Beautiful swimming pool, 2 restaurants, bar, very friendly staff, currency exchange (and ATMs nearby), spa and comfortable beds.
Day 26: April 6 – Calcutta
Today the cars go to the dock. We will provide waypoints to get there and there will be plenty of taxis (yellow Ambassadors) nearby to get you back to the hotel.
Overnight at The Oberoi Grand, Calcutta
Day 27: April 7 – Calcutta
Calcutta is a fascinating city. The New Market is just behind the hotel and the Victoria Memorial and Fort William are nearby in the middle of the 988-acre Maidan park. Other interesting sites include Park Street Cemetery, the Marble Palace and the Kalighat Temple. In the business district BBD Bagh buildings like the GPO and Writers Building are a reminder of the city’s colonial history. Walk along the river or take a boat trip to see the famous Howrah Bridge and the ghats. At the Botanical Gardens (opened in 1786) in the city’s suburbs the star attraction is the 200 year old Banyan Tree that marks the beginning of the Great Trunk Road. Park Street is about 10 minutes walk away with good restaurants and bars, or visit Ganguly Street (for jewellery), ChinaTown and the modern shopping centres around Camac Street.
Overnight at The Oberoi, Calcutta
Day 28: April 8 - Departure
 
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